Thursday 31 August 2017

Movies I Watched on the Trip

During the trip I downloaded a lot of movies to watch when the time arose.  When I was caught in the rain for a few days in Costa Rica I watched quite a few movies. I do not remember every one I watched but what follows is a partial list.


2 or 3 Things I Know About Her - (Antarctica)

North By Northwest

La Mala Educación - (Antarctica)

Easy Rider - (Costa Rica)

Ché - (Costa Rica)

Inception (Costa Rica)

The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford - (Antarctica)

Y Tú Mama También - (Antarcitca)

Perroes Amores

On the Waterfront - (Costa Rica)

Lenny - (Nicaragua)

Strange Brew - (Colombia)

Secret of the Kells - (Nicaragua)

Wicked City - (Argentina)

The Motorcycle Diaries - (Costa Rica)

Shogun Assassin - (Panama City)

Monday 28 August 2017

My Camera

Even though I took a lot f pictures on this trip I am surprised at how many pics I did not take.  For instance there are only two pictures of the interior of the ship that sailed to Antarctica.  And there are no pictures of the subway in Buenos Aires.  There are also hardly any pictures of the food I ate or the places I stayed.

I had thought about buying a camera before I left the USA.  A nice 15 megapixel digital thing to take pictures of the journey of a lifetime. While wandering Best Buy I decided against it.  Not just because of the prices or the risk of getting an expensive device stolen. Using my phone would be more aesthetically in tune with the genius of the trip which was not showing off but getting away and not telling anyone.  Of course I told everyone I was leaving and now my journal is online but still that  was never the point.  I was never driving to make a blog about it or a big show of it or any of that. Part of my ever evolving original plan was to drive to Chile and live there.

I think the pictures turned out well for what I was using.  And keep in mind the goal of taking pictures was not to take the clearest most awesome picture with the sharpest image. It was to document the trip.  To be my second pair of eyes or memory. 

This is the phone I used.



The model is an LG Versa. Pretty good phone.  Decent photos.  2 megapixel camera.  Verizon paused services while I was away and I had zero capacities on this phone to call or text while I was out of the country. 

However I did receive this curious text message while I was in Peru.


You won't get a message like that on a digital camera.

Sunday 27 August 2017

How Far Did I Drive?

How far did I drive?

The truth is I do not know.  I forgot to take a picture of my odometer when I left the USA and when I visited the car at the house of the guy who towed it after I crashed.  

I took a picture of my odometer in Guatemala when it reached 200,000 miles. 


I took another picture when I arrived in Ushuaia.


Undoubtedly I drove more then 9,909 miles. I would add at least 2,000 miles to the total which gives 11,909 miles though I probably drove further than that.

Although I put so many miles on the car in such a short time I never had any major engine trouble except towards the end on the very last day of driving.  Because I wrecked the car I was never able to find out just what the problem was. The biggest problem with the car was having to change the tires so many times.  But that is the fault of the roads.

It helps that the original owner of this car was the state of Wisconsin who certainly performed proper maintenance. The person I bought the car from had bought it at auction and also took good care of the vehicle.  

The car was a 1997 Ford Escort station wagon.  

Saturday 26 August 2017

Music I Listened to on The Trip

Besides obtaining maps and funds I also bought an iPod and stocked it with with a lot of music.  My car radio stopped working a few months before I even began the journey, in June I think, and I never repaired it so I listen to music through headphones the whole time. Dangerous I know but thats how I did it. 


Below are a few of the many albums I listened to and places I remember listening to them. Music makes driving memorable. I will never forget the rush I had the first time I listened to Ponytails’s album Ice Cream as I was driving through the lush green Andes in Colombia. Or the time I listened to The Dodos’ Visiter driving at night through the Pampas towards Buenos Aires. Such a good album I listened to it twice before switching over to William Shatner’s Has Been. But most of all I cannot forget listening to the haunting eastern melodies of Devotchka just as a semi plowed into my car and almost killed me.

Curt Daniel - History of Calvinism

Joel Beeke - 1 John series and various

Yeah Yeah Yeahs - Fever to Tell, Show Your Bones, It’s Blitz! (Buenos Aires, listened to Gold Lion several times driving through Buenos Aires)

Wu-Tang Clan - Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)  (Guatemala after passing through immigration)

Ponytail - Ice Cream (driving through Andes in Colombia)

Menonmena - Mines (Nazca, Peru and other places)

Deltron 3030 - Delton 3030 (Argentina driving in the pampas South)

Chet Atkins - Guitar Legend, The RCA Years

GZA - Liquid Swords

DJ Shadow - Endtroducing, Preemptive Strike (Chile)

Conor Oberst - Conor Oberst (Argentina)

Deftones - Diamond Eyes (Argentina driving to Cueva de los manos and other places)

Decembrists - Discography (Argentina last day of driving South)

Bright Eyes - Discography (Argentina driving in Pampas)

Air - Moon Safari (Chile leaving the stars at night)

Arcade Fire - Neon Bible, Funeral (Argentina heading North from Bariloche)

Broken Bells - Broken Bells

Mega Man Soundtrack (Peru)

Final Fantasy VII Soundtrack (Peru, Antarctica)

The Doors - The Doors (Panama)

The Dodos - Visiter (Argentina twice on the way to Buenos Aires)

The Cure - Disintegration

Miles Davis - The Complete Birth of the Cool (Argentina)

Echo and the Bunnymen - Echo and the Bunnymen

Fruit Bats - Spelled in Bones

Pearl Jam - Rearviewmirror (Colombia)

Godspeed You! Black Emperor - F#A#∞ (Chile)

The Stranglers - Golden Brown (only the song, on the ferry back from Tierra del Fugeo)

Coldplay - A Rush of Blood to the Head, Viva la Vida (Colombia)

Sufjan Stevens - Age of Adz (Panama)

Glenn Yarbrough - Honey and Wine, Time to Move On (Chile)

The Hobbit Soundtrack

The Return of the King Soundtrack

Jenny Lewis - Acid Tongue (Panama in Colon)

mewithoutyou - [A--> B] Life (Peru leaving Cusco)

My Morning Jacket - Z

Pixies - Surfer Rosa, Doolittle 

Owen - No Good For No One Now (Peru)

Novos Baianos - Acabou Chorare (Panama, many other places)

Seiji Honda - Final Fantasy VII Piano Collection (Antarctica)

Nas - Illmatic (Colombia in the mountains)

Sister Suvi - Now I am Champion (Chile at ferry crossing to Tierra del Fuego)

Spoon - Gimmie Fiction, Ga Ga Ga, Transference

Tune-yards - Bird Brains

The Wipers - Is This Real? (Argentina)

Nina Simone - The Best of Nina Simone (Chile driving to Torres del Paine)

Grandaddy - The Sophtware Slump (Chile driving to Torres del Paine)

The Thermals - More Parts per Million, Fuckin A, The Body, the Blood, the Machine (Costa Rica)

Yes - Fragile (Peru driving away from Puno and Lake Titicaca)

William Shatner - Has Been, The Transformed Man (Argentina)

Leonard Nimoy & William Shatner - Spaced Out - The Very best Of.. (Argentina)

Leonard Nimoy - Leonard Nimoy Presents Mr. Spock's Music From Outer Space (Argentina driving to Bariloche)

Devotchka - A Mad and Faithful Telling (Argentina, listening to as I wrecked. Still have never finished listening to this album.)

These are only the albums I remember listening to.  I am sure there are others but they escape me at the moment.  It was a long trip and most of it was taken up with the History of Calvinism series but I did listen to a lot of music.  I also attempted to learn Spanish through an audio course but I got tired of it quickly.

Friday 25 August 2017

25 January 2011

After putzing around in Buenos Aires for a few days, this is finally it. The plane was supposed to leave for Panama City at 3 am but was delayed until 7:15 am. Now I am on the plane. From Panama I will fly to Miami. This journey is over. Who knows what lies ahead?



Adios, Buenos Aires


The End

21 - 24 January

There are no entries for these dates.  I don't know why I did not write anything down.  Not much happened anyway.  Mostly just a lot of wandering around Buenos Aires.  

One notable thing did happen and that was when I went to buy my plane ticket from an outlet at a hotel I started speaking in horribly butchered Spanish. Thankfully I was stopped by the clerk who said, "We speak English."  I told him what ticket I wanted but my credit card was declined. Very embarrassing.  I told him I would sort it out and be back.  

In Buenos Aires there are internet cafes which also have phone booths.  I called my bank and was told my credit card and others had been cancelled because the information had been hacked. It wasn't my fault.  After pleading to the operator about my situation he agreed to reactivate the credit card and authorise the one payment for the airplane ticket.

Also at some point in Buenos Aires I happened upon a really snazzy jazz club.  I walked in and stood in the back until the song finished.  Then I got a table and a beer.  A couple from Brazil joined me after the show.  So did an American guy. We shared a bottle of wine. I remember the American guy said he had always wanted to drive to South America. So this must have been before I wrecked my car. He also gave me his email address.

I see in my files that I do not have a lot of Buenos Aires pictures.  This is really surprising to me. I cannot explain it.

Walking around the city I noticed all the graffiti so I decided to take as many pictures of that as I could. 

January 21





January 22



January 23

20 January 2011

After a few prayers and persistent turns of the key, the engine finally started. I had given up for the night and pushed the car further off the road so I could sleep. But I also really wanted to make it to Posadas.

I had to slow down for a car and this caused the engine to die again. Not wanting a repeat of that and risking the car not being able to start again in the middle of nowhere I decided to pass a semi on a curve. I moved to the left just in time for the oncoming semi I didn’t see to ram my side and send me bouncing into the guardrails. The airbags deployed with a stunning violence knocking me senseless. It was all a blur. The kind of hackneyed blur you always hear about from accident victims. I was very upset that my adventure had come to such a foolish and sudden end. I almost cried on a bare chested truckers shoulder.

The semi that hit me and the semi I was following both stopped a few meters off. The trucker I was following was shaking his head and calling me stupid. I kept asking what we should do. Should we call the police? A line of cars was forming behind my broken automobile which was in the middle of the road. It started right up and I drove it to the dirt. A group of truckers who were parked not far away sleeping had come over to gawk.

One tire was wasted, the other was flat as well. I changed the worst looking tire, drivers side front, and filled the passenger front tire with fix-a-flat. It filled right up but I heard a hissing. I didn’t have much time. I took off as fast as I could. Everyone had abandoned me. No one had called the police. I was on my own and I needed to get to the next police station before my car completely died.

The car was already dead. The passenger side was smashed in, glass was everywhere, and strange clicking noises were emanating from the motor. I couldn’t believe I was driving the car or still alive. I hadn’t even checked my face for cuts and blood and bruises but the shirtless trucker said I looked fine and I didn’t feel any blood running down my chin. I as more concerned with the journey and my car. If the car was going now then I maybe I could still drive it back to the states. All my delusions were exposed when the car finally died and wouldn’t restart. Now I was completely devastated.

I was going to start walking but thought the better of it and was able to flag down a car to call the police. It was the fifth car to pass. While waiting I took out my guitar and played a song called “I’m Glad I’m Not Dead Cus I Should Be”. Made it up on the spot. I should be dead.

The cops came and we loaded up their truck with some of my more important things. While heading into town they got a call that the tow truck was on its way so we turned around back to the car. I gave two of the cops my California license plates. They were gendarmes, national police. There was a lot of small talk I had a bit of a time following.

The tow truck was a pick-up with a platform. We pushed my car onto the platform and headed into town. Alvear. The same place where I had just had my exhaust fixed. Both of the hotels we drove to were full so I slept in the dorm at the Gendarme’s office. One of the cops said he would drive me around to customs in the morning. Customs said all I needed was a detailed note from the Gendarmes detailing the accident and that my car was junk.





I bought a bus ticket to Buenos Aires for 7:45 pm. It’s time to fly back to the states. I’ve been hanging out with the Gendarmes all day. I even had lunch with them. The ladies cooked some rice and meat in the kitchen. There is a small vegetable garden and a few cats. I ended up giving away a lot of things I don’t need, can’t take with me, and shouldn’t have brought in the first place. It was very hard to pare down my possessions and even now I know I have too much stuff.

Aside from the pain in the left side of my neck, I don’t feel any hurt or pain from the accident.

In Alvear the aduana is right on the Rio Uruguay which separates Brazil and Argentina. There was a ferry floating a single car across to Argentina. I took a picture of the skyline, the steeple poking through the trees. This is the closest I will come to Brazil.

There's Brazil on the other side of the river
I walked to the bus station around 5:30 tired of sitting in the Gendarmes office all day. I had watched two movies on their T.V., Catch Me If You Can and some skateboard movie with Hilary Duff. I took out my guitar to play and the guy running the ticket booth came out to listen. He also played pretty well. All of a sudden his friend sped up, got out of his car, and began playing samba and singing. He was excellent. A girl in a sundress rode by on a scooter. The sun was bright. Two horses were wandering around town and had started grazing near the street. Two children from next door came out to listen to the music.



After the musician left, Edgar, the Gendarme who had provided so much assistance showed up with his girlfriend. The girl in the sundress was with them. She took several pictures with me. In one she was holding my guitar. She wanted me to play some Bon Jovi. I told her I didn’t know any. She and Edgar’s girlfriend were sipping maté brewed with cold orange juice. I had a sip too. Before they left Priscilla, that was the young girl’s name, said, “I love you.” I said, “Te amo.” Everyone had a laugh. No one else stopped by to talk or play guitar.

Thursday 24 August 2017

19 January 2011

It was raining when I woke at 9am. I should’ve bought an alarm clock. I was hoping to leave around 6. The rain and clouds followed me for a few hundred miles. Then it became blue with no grey at all.

 I hung out at a gas station on wi-fi, drinking coffee for a good half hour. When I left I forgot to turn on my headlights. This lapse earned me a ticket from the cops at the checkpoint a few meters ahead. I told them I had no money to pay. They entered everything into a computer and said I could pay at the border In Puerto Iguacu. I watched them stop several cars with their headlights off. They let them all go with a warning.

I got pulled over a few hours later. Pulled over isn’t accurate at all. The lady cop in the road motioned for me to pull over. She wanted my insurance so I gave her my New York insurance like I did in Peru. Worked like a charm. Then she asked if I had a fire extinguisher and a triangle. I did not so I got another ticket. 

In her office while she was typing the information into the computer her boss wandered in and I asked him to show me the law. He showed it to me. I protested that no one had ever asked about a fire extinguisher or triangle. She printed out the information and told me I needed to show the paper to customs when I exit the country. I am definitely not going to do that. If they look me up and find that I owe two ridiculous fines I will do my best to get them dismissed. I’m not going to help them out.

Neat cloud
There is a lot of construction along Ruta 14 because they are expanding the road to four lanes. I almost wrecked when a car trying to pass me and a bus cut me off because he did not have enough space to pass and there was an oncoming car. I got ran off the road because I wouldn’t let him in.

At one point in the road there was a huge smokey grassfire and we had to wait about twenty minutes at a roadblock before the cops escorted us through. Later I saw a larger grassfire but there were no cops stopping traffic. The moon loomed large on the horizon as it rose. A pale red.

Grass fire
There are several new forests along the highway because there is a lot of logging.

I stopped to get gas and saw my phone was back in touch with the satellites. It was showing the time once more. Now I can set my alarm. It’s been a hassle ever since the battery popped out in Ushuaia. I had dinner at the restaurant next to the gas station. The owner is Ukrainian. 

Thirty miles after dinner my car started stuttering and the check engine light began flashing wildly. In a panic I pulled over and rummaged for a flashlight and popped the hood. I decided to head back to the gas station I saw on the edge of the town I had just entered. The car died on the way so I pulled over again.  But it started right up.

At the gas station I checked the oil and everything else. A man came over asking questions and helping me check. Everything looked okay. I did’t understand what happened. On my way to the bathroom to wash my hands a very fat man said “Hello” and asked if I spoke English. H said he had been a commercial diver in Houston for the oil industry. His name was Juan Carlos. He called a mechanic friend and gave me a beer.

The mechanic showed up with three other guys  in a crazy looking dune buggy. It looks like he dismantled a few cars and put them back together. He didn’t see any problems but he said he could fix the loud exhaust problem. He said he’d do it for 100 pesos more or less. That’s $25!! We went back to his shop. All the bumpy roads and my fast driving had disconnected the exhaust pipe. He had to cut it off so he could weld it together.

We did a test drive and he heard the problem. The pistons, he said. He sent me to another mechanic with a guy who was helping him. This mechanic said it was the oxygen sensor. He said I could probably make it to Posadas or Puerto Iguazú with no problems.

My car died just before the bridge on the way out of town.

Wednesday 23 August 2017

18 January 2011

The line outside the U.S. embassy was quite long. Many people want a visa. I was able to get in right away though because I am a citizen. I was there to add pages to my passport. I could not come yesterday because the embassy was closed for the Martin Luther King holiday. They told me to return at 2:30 to pick up my passport. That means I have to hang out in Palermo for 3.5 hours.

I walked down to Oui Oui Café on Nicaragua for a late breakfast. Eggs benedict. It’s on a very busy and noisy street corner. There is construction going on and cement trucks are idling loudly. The table with the English or Aussies, and really who cares which, is also annoyingly loud.

Last night I was using my laptop outside at a cafe and two older men walked up and said I shouldn’t use my computer outside because someone could snatch it and run off. Not impossible but highly unlikely and patently paranoid and ridiculous. The only people who came up wanted money not my laptop. One guy had a laminated sign in perfect English. Why would he have a sign in perfect English in Spanish speaking Buenos Aires? Because its a scam.

I returned to the embassy a half hour early and they told me to wait outside till 2:30. I asked if I could use the bathroom.They let me in. I didn’t get my passport until 3:15. I was pretty angry for having to wait. I hightailed it out of there and caught the subway to San Telmo and walked around Plaza Dorrego and down Defensa and back to my hotel.

Some part of Buenos Aires
I did some research about Brazilian visas in Puerto Iguazu and went to get some passport sized photos. That took a lot of time and effort but I found a place to do it for me. He even cut them so the Ak-47 on my shirt was cropped off. I cannot wait to leave Buenos Aires tomorrow. A lot of things here have been disappointing but its an enjoyable city. I could live here.

Walking back to the hotel from San Telmo I saw a car on fire on Ave 9 de Julio. High orange flames and thick black smoke poured out of the car. I thought it was going to blow at any moment. Traffic was backed up and a lot of bystanders were snapping photos and taking video footage. The fireman arrived and doused the flames before the car could explode.

Tuesday 22 August 2017

17 January 2011

Last night I kept hearing applause so I went to search out the source. There was a large group gathered around two guys lip-synching a drama as a man and a woman. Later more of them were dancing a la Michael Jackson. One was even dressed like Michael circa smooth criminal.  They danced to a medley of MJ songs and did some of the dances in the videos.

Today has truly been disappointing. I walked all the way to the Venezuelan embassy only to learn that despite what the USA state department website says, I don’t need a visa to enter Venezuela. I did not understand what the lady was telling me at first so I sat back down watching other people do paperwork. Then it dawned on me that I probably needed to give her copies of my documents so I asked and understood nothing in response. Finally I was told in English by another worker that I did not need a visa. Thank you state department website for the misinformation.


On the way to the Brazilian embassy I witnessed a horrible car accident. Two cars. One veered off the other over the curb and across oncoming traffic lanes of traffic which were empty and into a large tree with exposed roots.  All I heard was the squeal of tires and the thump as the car ran over the roots. I don’t think anyone was hurt because I saw everyone exit their cars and walk around.  A jogger also stopped to help out.

At the Brazilian embassy I was told I needed to make an appointment but the next available date is January 26th which is too far off. I was told I might be able to get one at the border at Foz do Iguaçu. 

I headed over to Clasica y Moderna, a highly recommended cafe/bookstore which I had attempted to drink at twice yesterday. It’s not a cafe. It’s a high priced fancy restaurant with a tiny bookstore in the back. So once again I can drink a coffee here but this is no place to hang out or read.


After that I walked probably two miles to the Che Guevara museum.  It’s not really a museum.  It’s a shop that houses some of the artifacts from the the museum after it closed down. There was a sign posted on the shut metal garage door: “Cerrado por vacciones”. What a let down. I took the subway back towards the hotel. With its wood paneling interior and tiny ceiling lamps and open windows it was pretty quaint. Tomorrow I will take the subway to the U.S.embassy. My feet are tired from walking all day but I got to see a large swath of downtown and Palermo.

Che Guevera museum

Monday 21 August 2017

16 January 2011

I thought someone stole my iPod. The light in my car was on and my iPod was gone. What a bummer. It was under my jacket on the backseat. I blasted The Dodos’ Visiter twice plus two William Shatner albums. I drove until almost 2 am. I finally pulled into a closed gas station and climbed in the backseat to sleep.

I woke at 7:30, filled up the tank, washed my face, and was in Buenos Aires by 10 am. Just before the two lane separates into a four lane autopista I drove past a sexy photo shoot at an old gas station. I followed the signs for Centro. There wasn’t much traffic downtown. I consulted my guide for a good cafe but the one whose review I liked was closed. So was the next one I went looking for. Both hostels the guide recommended were full. The largest hostel in Buenos Aires with 300 beds was full until Thursday. I did not think well of this situation. I took my laptop and when for a stroll down Florida Ave, a pedestrian mall, looking for a cafe with wi-fi.



Lots of vendors and street performers. Tango dancers and musicians. Blankets spread out with all kinds of trinkets. Instead of a cafe I found a cheap hotel for three nights. 60 pesos a night. The receptionist said I should park in a garage. Two American girls checked in before me. The place is a bit rundown and almost seedy. Reminds me of the hotel in downtown Portland. The plaque out front says “Hostel Touristico”. There’s wi-fi.

The internet said the second cafe, Tortoni, was open so I walked on over. It still looked closed: door shut tight, windows covered, no outside seating, but the door was actually slightly ajar so I poked my head in. I was seated right away.

I’ve been ordering cafe con leche because coffee and milk are what I like.  But in this part of the world a cafe con leche is more like a cappuccino. Scouring over the menu I saw they had cafe con creama and something in my brain clicked. I ordered a cafe con creama and apple pie a la mode. The waiter returned with a tiny espresso shot and a large bowl of thick cream. With a dab of cream the coffee was perfect. This is what I’d been searching for and not just in South America but in all my coffee experiences for the past five years. I was instantly transported back to Adrianna’s and playing cards with Jenni. No more cafe con leche for me. But a cafe wasn’t going to be enough for me so I ordered a cafe dobla and mixed in the rest of the cream. Two old couples were seated at the table next to me. One of the men had a baseball cap from Port Lockroy Antarctica. Cafe Tortoni is very old and beautiful but it’s not a place to hang out all day.  It’s a restaurant not a cafe.

On the walk back to the hotel I saw an edition of Borges’ complete works in a bookstore window and the urge to read his poetry suddenly and irrationally overtook me. No bookstore I’ve been to has Borges in English. It started raining.

I used the wi-fi again to plan my route to the embassies of Venezuela and Brazil tomorrow. I also discovered El Ateneo, a bookstore with a cafe. It’s in a refurbished theater and is listed as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. The cafe is on the stage. The first cafe I went to was listed as opening at 5 on Sundays so I walked on down but even at 6 pm it was still closed. El Ateneo however was open.

El Ateneo bookstore
I imagine Buenos Aires will roar to life tomorrow but for the moment everything is closed and traffic is minimal. There’s a large obelisk in the middle of downtown. Either there is no defined skyline or I haven’t seen it from the right angle yet. All the buildings are dingy off white and old. It seems like an exciting place.

This morning a man trying to lure customers into his store asked a passerby, “Would you like to see a leather jacket?”  It was very funny.

Sunday 20 August 2017

15 January 2011

I slept in my car last night. The previous entry was written in a sleepy whirl. The road turned to dirt again but only for a few miles. From Malargüe onward the road was paved. I ran out of gas a mile outside of Malargüe when I stopped to take a picture of a sign. I filled up with the spare gas.


Saw this early in the morning


In town I hung out at the gas station using their wi-fi and having a coffee. I was on my way out of town when I spotted a Goodyear. So I changed my tire rather than risk breaking down on the way to Mendoza.

While waiting for the tire I walked into the AT, looked for a new funnel because the one I have spills the gas everywhere (no one had one in stock and I searched every store in town), and bought a new side mirror. It took me a while to figure out how to attach and I had to go to a hardware store I was at earlier to buy some screws and nuts. The owner helped me put it together. Outside the city I bypassed three girls but turned around to pick them up. I saw someone else had stopped so I continued on down highway 40 to Mendoza.

Up the road I got stopped by the cops. He asked if I had drugs or weapons. He also informed me that just around the corner route 40 turned to gravel and dirt for 70 miles. So I took the paved detour for route 40 up 144 towards Mendoza. That’s when I decided to skip Mendoza and just head for Buenos Aires. I only gave one guy a ride today. Drove him for about 40 miles.

After Malargüe the land changed considerably from bleak sandy semi-desert to arable pasture land to bountiful flourishing green farmland. I saw fields of corn and sunflowers today. Northern Patagonia is quite different from the southern pampas wasteland of shrubs and guanacos.



Roadside memorial to someone
Yesterday I saw a lonely mountain way off in the horizon like Mt Fuji or Mt Hood. Same kind of slope. It was Lanín Volcano. Now the land is rolling plains like Iowa or Wisconsin.


Field of sunflowers
I am quickly running out of money. It will be a miracle if I can get out of South America with my car. When I get back to the states I will be heavily in debt all over again but it will have been worth every dime.

The guy I picked up told me today was Saturday. I had no idea. I can’t get a visa until Monday. I still have a lot of work to do. My trip back home will be truncated but these outrageous repairs ($100 for a tire!!!!!!!!!! $100 for a tire is extremely outrageous) are bleeding me dry.

Long days of driving are causing me to rush past tiny exciting details when I write. I get so tired and feel rushed. I have a long way to go. I stopped at a shell gas station to shower. I will drive for a few more hours and sleep in my car.