29 November 2010

This morning the attendant who let me out of the hotel asked if I was going to Ushuaia. How did he know? Saw my NY plates I guess. Getting gas was a challenge because I didn’t want to spend all my cash. Took a while to find a place where I could use my Visa. They tired to charge it before pumping the gas and of course that didn’t work. Once they pumped the gas and entered an amount then it went through.

Outside of Patso on the way to Ecuador I picked up a couple from the Netherlands who were backpacking. Albert and Janneke. We drove together all the way to Quito. The border of Ecuador was fast and free. Probably the most hassle free border so far.

Albert and Janneke

Albert lived in Argentina as a foreign exchange student so he knew Spanish quite well and he had a GPS. He was able to tell us exactly when we were at the equator and he was bale to direct us to the house where they were couch surfing. 

Driving through the Andes

Zero Degrees latitude

About 30 kilometers outside of Quito the transit police pulled me over. They claimed I crossed the double yellow line when passing.  Not true. I passed on the dotted line but crossed back over on the double line. He said he was going to fine me and that we had to pay the fine in Iberra which is 80 kilometers behind us. But the kindly officer said he wanted to help us tourists out. We could pay the fine now. He gave us a book of road ruled to read and see how much we would have to pay.  So we read it and gave it back.  But he returned the book to us. Turns out he wanted us to put $30 inside the book. He didn’t want us to hand him the money because that would look suspicious and he wasn’t being corrupt, he was simply trying to help us out. So I slipped him a ten, which was the smallest bill I had, and got my papers back and we sped off. Albert spoke to him the whole time. It was kind of funny and I have been driving a tad dangerously. Crossing lines and passing on curves. Finally we made it to Quito and I dropped them off and found a cheap hostel.

Driving in Quito is less hurried. More normal. No one is crowding you like in Medellín and the road signage is excellent. There are street signs on every corner. Driving in the Andes however is simply breathtaking. The road is on a cliff with a sheer steep drop. Some areas are lush and green craggily mountains staring back at you impassively. Deep canyons running between them. Other parts are hot, dry, and dusty with octopus-like cacti drooping over the cliffs. Everywhere you look is an image begging to be photographed. Blue skies, white fluffy clouds rising up around the mountains. Such expansive beauty seems almost impossible. Quito is rainy and cold. It’s the first time I have felt any cold. Being high up in the mountains will bring such weather.

Tunnel ahead

Soon after picking up Albert and Janneke the police waved us over to stop but I kept going. A little further up a car trailing us started honking then passed and signaled me to stop. He approached the car and told me I should’ve stopped for the policeman and that there are more police ahead who will probably stop me. But they didn’t and apparently no one radioed us in.

Walking around Quito looking for a bite to eat a group of younger people were ogling me and one of the guys asked for a pic of me and with me. It was weird but I agreed an then four girls crowded around me and wanted a picture with me. I asked why they wanted a picture but I guess they didn’t hear. I wonder if they thought I was Matisyahu or if I was just an interesting looking foreigner with my black hat and long black beard.

28 November 2010

On the road to Cali I drove through a large valley filled with fields of sugarcane. The road was surprisingly good. For long sections it was a smooth four lane highway. This is quite rare and always a happy surprise. Along the way I passed numerous motorbikes.  It seemed as if we were all racing.  Finally I passed a stadium where all kinds of motorcycles were parked. I think there was a race going on.

Trying to find the hostel in Cali was a bust. So I headed out. From what I saw Cali is in need of an extreme washing. The streets are filled with trash. Back in Mexico I said I would avoid cities and perhaps I should hold to this resolution. On the way out of Cali I stopped at a grocery store and had lunch and bought some cookies to eat while I drive.

I drove almost an hour after dark which was dangerous on the wet mountain road but finding a hotel wasn’t easy. I was able to use the internet which was good. Today I finished the 75 part series on the History of Calvinism I’ve been listening to. Tomorrow I will start on Joel Beeke.

27 November 2010

The highway to Medellin twists through the mountains. Along the road there are hoses spouting water. I’d imagine this is captured from rivers running down the mountains. Despite the dangerous mountain roads there are houses and people and towns. Yarmul is nestled high in the mountains with an incredible view of town as you approach and leave.

Congested is not the word to describe Medellín. It is absolutely cluttered and jam packed and nearly impassable in certain parts of downtown. Driving through the city is like navigating a hoarder’s house. You don’t know where you are and you have to make your own path. I parked my car and had a taxi drive me to the Black Sheep Hostel with the intention of walking back and driving there but it was so far out of downtown that I decided not to stay in Medellín, He took me to an ATM and then back to my car. I considered I should drive to the hostel since I did tell them I would return with my car but I decided it wasn’t worth the hassle.

Instead I drove through the even steeper and windier mountain roads out of Medellín towards Cali. It is dangerous to pass trucks on blind mountain curves but that is how I drove and with God’s perseverance I have survived. 

The hotel I stopped at is 45 pesos which is five pesos more than last night but there is an awesome panoramic view of the river and mountains and the kitchen looks better than the kitchen last night. Last night I ordered pollo la plancha and was told they didn’t have any chicken. Only thing is they open at eight which means I have a two hour wait.

View from my hotel

I went to get my binoculars to scope out the view but after turning my car inside out it seems someone has stolen them. I hope this is not the case. But it seems to be.

There are military checkpoints and police but I have not been stopped. Yesterday a cop motioned for me to pull over but I kept going. So he pulled over the car behind me. I thought the cops would follow me but they didn’t.

I got a call just before eight to let me know the kitchen was about to open. I told him I still wanted to eat and I asked about the moth problem in my room. There are moths everywhere on the wall near the light and on my bed. So he came back with a can of Raid and sprayed the windows and the wall.  This only served to leave dead moths on the floor and a faint insecticide smell all over the room. At dinner Christmas music was playing at a low level. Beeping like from a cheap toy.

26 November 2010

This morning I left Cartagena. Took me an hour just to get out of the city but after that it was back to normal. Straight cruising on a two lane highway past rolling hills and floodplains. The road is good. Lots of toll stops. Tomorrow Medellín. Joelson stayed in Cartagena so once again I’m on my own.

Driving out of Cartagena

25 November 2010

I stayed today to make sure Joelson can get his money but it looks like his friend will not be using my bank account. Today I had trouble with my own bank accounts as Bank of America froze my funds. I chatted online with a bank employee and he claimed I had not informed them I would be out of the country. It was a lot of trouble and infuriating but I was finally able to get through on their international collect line and sort things out.

I walked around the Cartagena Museum of Modern Art. Is is very small but there are some interesting pieces in the collection. It rains every afternoon and this afternoon the sky really opened up and let us have it. My pants are still soaked.

Last night I was hanging out with an Irish lady from the Hostel who claims her brother is the drummer for My Bloody Valentine and that she has done PR work for numerous rock bands. Last night I also had a dream about Anastasiya but I did not write it down so I forgot it.

View from the hostel balcony

24 November 2010

Getting the car was extremely easy. We went to the Dian (customs) first thing in the morning to have an agent assigned to inspect the cars and our exit papers were waiting for us. There was no need to have anyone inspect the car. Upon exiting the port, the police inspected our papers and car but that was it. A lot of hassle I thought would occur did not happen.

Obtaining insurance was a bit of a hassle. Apparently you can get insurance at any gas station. But they directed us somewhere else.  The lady entered the wrong model of car in the computer and that took a bit to clear up.

Finding a post office to mail a postcard to my brother was a hassle. Even the owner of the hostel who led me to the post was given the runaround. Finally we found it in a tourist gift shop.

Cartagena is vibrant during the weekday. Not so much on the weekend. Everywhere someone is trying to sell something. Socks. Mangoes. Bracelets. There are no pay phones. Instead there are people on the street with multiple cellphones whom up pay to use.

Joelson wants to use my bank account for his friend to deposit money in. I will then withdraw this money and give it to him. I hope it does not take too long. I want to leave quickly. I want to be quickly on my way. Tonight we watched the movie he stars in “Escape From Darwin”. He plays a Crackhead Joe.  This low budget film was made in Darwin, California which is a small desert town near Death Valley.  It was quite ridiculous. I do not know if we will travel together but it has been good to have him navigate the whole process. We photocopied my map today for him.

23 November 2010

Today our container was not ready until 4:30. This was two and a half hours later than expected. It wasn’t even in the computer system. By the time it was ready, there were no customs agents around to inspect the vehicles. I was able to look at the cars and verify there was no damage and I was able to retrieve a fresh change of clothes and my macbook. Tomorrow looks very hopeful for finally being able to retrieve the car but there are no guarantees in this bureaucratic jungle. Hopefully the third time’s the charm.

22 November 2010

Joelson’s airplane was late but that didn’t matter because the ship hadn’t even arrived yet so we couldn’t do anything. I paid for his room at the hostel and we played pool at a pool hall. He won every game except when he hit the eight ball in on accident. We walked around town a bit then I went off to have a beer. Nothing it seems is ever happening. At the bar outside the hostel I met a Norweigan man and his girlfriend. He bought me a drink and shared his whiskey.

Wandering troubadours with guitars walked by and I asked if he played. Then he invited them over and requested I play some American tunes (Bruce Springsteen, Billy Joel, etc.) but I couldn’t so I jammed with the one of the guitarists. It was pretty awesome playing an impromptu guitar session in Cartagena.

Tomorrow the ship is scheduled to arrive. I hope I can retrieve my car.  I’m eager to get back on the road.

21 November 2010

Last night an American man gave me a DVD about Solomon’s Temple by a Messianic Jew named Michael Rood. Today I walked all around Cartagena. On the city walls, up and down the streets, and to Castillo San Felipe which is a huge fortress on a hill above Cartagena just outside the city walls. The town is quite lovely. Joelson will not arrive until tomorrow morning.

Castillo San Felipe

Inside Castillo San Felipe

New Cartagena seen from the Old City walls

20 November 2010

I have made it to Cartagena, Colombia. I’m in South America. It’s pretty exhilarating to know I’m far away on another continent and that I am well on my way on this trip.  Joelson will not be here until late Monday or Tuesday but I will start the process of retrieving our cars without him. I’m staying in central Cartagena within the walls of the old city. The streets are narrow and the architecture is beautiful Spanish Colonial. Same as the French Quarter in New Orleans. Tomorrow I will have to explore the city properly.

A wedding celebration spills out into the street

Cartagena at night