03 December 2010

I used the ATM this morning to withdraw 500 solas and the machine wouldn’t complete the transaction so I withdrew 200 and then 300. For a while the landscape was all shanties and dunes and scraggly vegetation. This suddenly gave way to a flat expansive sandy nothingness. In all directions just sand and a watery mirage on the horizon. I was able to go 70 mph. What an exciting change of pace from the slow going mountains of Ecuador. Today I drove almost 500 miles which is double what I had been doing in the Andes.

The desert of Peru is very reminiscent of the Death Valley area in California. Pure desolation. Absolute nothingness. Except for the Pacific lapping away at the edge of this immense desert and the large piles of trash on the sides of the road it’s not that different. Large mountains, sand dunes, high winds forming drifts all along the highway. But the trash makes the air stink. It seems as if garbage trucks collect the trash and dump it along the highway outside of town. Then they burn it.

Peruvian houses constructed from refuse

I gave rides to two men today. They wanted to pay but I refused and told them it was free. The second man was with a group of six others but I only took him. I think I should rearrange my things in case I need to fit someone in the back.

Just sand

The desert had turned to sea

Sunset in the Peruvian desert

I was stopped outside of Chiclayo and the cop asked if I had any soda. I did not. I also got stopped outside of Paramonga and was asked for my insurance. I do not have Peruvian insurance so I showed them my New York insurance and they let me go. I thought I was going to make it to Lima but night fell and I stopped two hours away in Barranca. The restaurant inside the hotel has very rich chicken. The meat simply falls off the bone it is so moist. The hotel is very cheap. Only seven dollars. Gas however is expensive. Four dollars a gallon. Forty-six to fill up the tank. The cook here said he has a brother who lives in New York City.

02 December 2010

With the slow going mountain roads I did not think I would make it to Peru today but I did. I got lost in Loja though I initially went in the right direction but turned around because I did not believe it was the right way. I drove all the way to the University at the end of town before I stopped to ask a gas station attendant where the road was. He pointed me back to where I had started. I think I lost an hour.

In Catacoocha I also got lost but not for long. Probably only lost about twenty minutes. All the mountain roads were generally good until about twenty miles outside of Macará. Then they just got nasty with real rough spots interrupting short bursts of smooth pavement.

Crossing the border from Ecuador into Peru was smooth, simple, and free. No tramitadors. The customs officials were watching Shaolin Soccer in Spanish.  There was  a bit of confusion when I changed my money because I thought the guy said 90 to 1 but it was really 2.6 to 1.

The real adventure of the day was awaiting me a few miles away in Tambo Grande. At the other end of town the bridge was out so I was forced to cross one of the three makeshift bridges constructed with thin logs and mud and barely as wide as my car. I held my breath the entire time as I slowly crossed. I had to pay one sola to a man waiting on the other side. Further past the bridge the road split with no sign so I went straight. The sand started thickening and I quickly realized my mistake only to get stuck as I was backing out. I took out my tiny camping shovel and tried digging around the tires and placing sticks under the front passenger tire for traction but nothing helped.

Shoddy makeshift narrow bridges

Eventually I saw a guy walking by and asked him for help pushing the car. Several of his friends came over to help but nothing worked. We even lifted the car out of the spot it was in. We lifted one side, then the other to shake it lose but it wouldn’t budge. After more digging under the car and a hard push forward, the car wiggled free. An old man came over to help us and he was the one who put the pedal to the metal and drove it real fast out of that spot. He told me to punch it out of there so I wouldn’t get stuck again.

So I took the other road. This road was a rocky dirt road.  A few miles in I stopped to ask a mototaxi (motorcycle taxi) for directions for the road to Piura. He said keep going straight. So I kept going straight into nothing. I found another driver and I asked him the way and he said I was way off and need to turn around and cross the river.

Cross the river??  So I turned around and drove back to Tambo Grande and recrossed the rickety bridge. I almost went off the edge this time despite the slow, careful crawl. I asked a taxi driver the way to Piura and he pointed back to the entrance to town. It was down the left I should’ve taken instead of entering Tambo Grande. None of what I had just endured was necessary. I was pretty livid the whole time after I got stuck until I was on the right road.

It took me a while to find a room in Piura because everything was full. This hotel doesn’t even have a place to park. I had to park a few blocks away in a lot. The receptionist drove with me to the lot though.

People in Ecuador stand on the side of the road and wave down cars to catch a ride so after passing a few people I picked up an older lady with a sack of onions. She didn’t need to go but a few miles. In Peru I stopped to pick up a lady but I didn’t understand her and I wasn’t sure if we were going the same way. I’m not sure it’s a good idea to stop for people needing lifts since I don’t understand Spanish so well but I will probably do it again.

1 December 2010

This morning at about 8 my rear passenger tire went flat and the can of fix-a-flat fixed nothing. So I put on the spare and continued out of town. A guy on a motorcycle pulled up next to me at a red light and asked where I was going. I said “Pan americana Sur” and he led me where the highway began and then sped off.

I pulled into the first Goodyear I saw to fix the tire. The tire they brought out to replace it looked a little warn and sure enough when they put it on the rim there was a large hole. My tire was irreparable because the sidewall was damaged. The Goodyear also happened to be specifically for semis.

But one of the mechanics drove us to a tire shop which was about a mile away. He tried to use the horn but it was broken.  All through South and Central America drivers have their hand constantly on their horn. The other shop had a tire for ninety dollars which was way too expensive but I took it anyway.  I had to take it.  What could I do? I can’t drive all the way to Argentina on a donut. I gave Orlando, that was the mechanic’s name, seven dollars, which was all I had in my pocket, for helping me out like he did. He didn’t even ask for anything.

The roads are surprisingly well maintained and for a while they were four lanes of smooth highway. There’s also a lot of construction going on as they widen the highway.  I got sidetracked in Ambato and ended up in a town called Quevo and then Pelileo Nuevo which was way off course. There was either no sign in Ambato or it was hidden or I just didn’t see it. So I spent an hour being lost. I had to stop at an internet cafe and use Google maps to find my way.

St George statue guarding the entrance to some town

I was going to get a hotel in Chunchi but did not. First they said they had a room then they said they didn’t have a room. I think the old lady just didn’t like me. So I drove further south to El Tambo and got a room here. I think this place might be a love motel because I saw several couples checking out as I was heading down to dinner. The lady here also did my laundry. It is very cold. There is no heater in the room.

The highway zig-zags all through the Andes. The mountains are a dull brown green. You can see all the fields they have cordoned off. Indigenous women walk along the road herding sheep or carrying hoes. They all wear the same colorful sweater, black skirt, and black or brown fedora or bowler hat. It is quite a sight to see all the mountain towns in the Andes and it’s pretty amazing that the highway is so well maintained.

Gas here is only $1.50 a gallon which is a huge relief after paying $5 in Colombia.

30 November 2010

Yesterday at the equator it was cold and rainy and lugubrious. We didn’t even see the official monument but a sundial. But the sun was obscured by clouds and so the sundial was not working. Today it is still overcast and gloomy with a chill and threat of rain. But this morning and afternoon the sun came out for a bit. I woke up early at 6:30 and showered and had a free breakfast of strawberries and cantaloupe in strawberry yogurt, toast, and coffee. I spoke at length with a British man, each of us sharing our travel experiences.

Then I took a cab to Old Quito but I saw a huge statue on a hill overlooking the city and I had the cabbie, Juan, take me there. Virgen de El Panecillo. A huge statue of the Virgin Mary crowned with stars and treading on a serpent. A blasphemous interpretation of Revelation 12. Along the way and back Juan related to me as much history as he could about the city. He pointed out several places, the cemetery, the jail, certain churches and government buildings. He was a good guide but $30 was a bit much.

Quito viewed from the Virgen El Panecillo

I went to visit the Palacio de Gobierno, the seat of government in Ecuador, but was told to return in a few hours at 1pm because the mornings were reserved for school tours. There were a lot of school children lined up outside. So I went to explore the huge Basílica del Voto Nacional. You can climb up to the belfry and clock tower for only two dollars. There is a great view of the city from up top. You can see the long stretch of cluttered houses all along the sides of the mountains and in the valley. After that I had lunch and then returned to the Palacio de Gobierno to wait in line for a tour. They gave me a free picture of myself standing in front of the water fountain inside the Palacio. I will probably send it to my sister Courtney.

Behind the clock

Palacio de Gobierno

Before returning to the hostel I bought a large jug of water and several packs of cookies. All around the old city are indigenous women in fedoras selling their fruits and vegetables and crafts. They are dressed in colorful sweaters and long skirts. Some have babies slung over their shoulders, swaddled tightly, only a barely visible head poking through. In front of the Palacio as I waited to enter, a very drunk man and his ugly woman got into a scuffle with the police. He kept falling on his face and had a cur on his brow over his left eye. They didn’t arrest him though. They walked them off. All the time two street musicians, an accordionist and a guitarist were playing cheerful Ecuadorian music.

Quito coffeeshop

29 November 2010

This morning the attendant who let me out of the hotel asked if I was going to Ushuaia. How did he know? Saw my NY plates I guess. Getting gas was a challenge because I didn’t want to spend all my cash. Took a while to find a place where I could use my Visa. They tired to charge it before pumping the gas and of course that didn’t work. Once they pumped the gas and entered an amount then it went through.

Outside of Patso on the way to Ecuador I picked up a couple from the Netherlands who were backpacking. Albert and Janneke. We drove together all the way to Quito. The border of Ecuador was fast and free. Probably the most hassle free border so far.

Albert and Janneke

Albert lived in Argentina as a foreign exchange student so he knew Spanish quite well and he had a GPS. He was able to tell us exactly when we were at the equator and he was bale to direct us to the house where they were couch surfing. 

Driving through the Andes

Zero Degrees latitude

About 30 kilometers outside of Quito the transit police pulled me over. They claimed I crossed the double yellow line when passing.  Not true. I passed on the dotted line but crossed back over on the double line. He said he was going to fine me and that we had to pay the fine in Iberra which is 80 kilometers behind us. But the kindly officer said he wanted to help us tourists out. We could pay the fine now. He gave us a book of road ruled to read and see how much we would have to pay.  So we read it and gave it back.  But he returned the book to us. Turns out he wanted us to put $30 inside the book. He didn’t want us to hand him the money because that would look suspicious and he wasn’t being corrupt, he was simply trying to help us out. So I slipped him a ten, which was the smallest bill I had, and got my papers back and we sped off. Albert spoke to him the whole time. It was kind of funny and I have been driving a tad dangerously. Crossing lines and passing on curves. Finally we made it to Quito and I dropped them off and found a cheap hostel.

Driving in Quito is less hurried. More normal. No one is crowding you like in Medellín and the road signage is excellent. There are street signs on every corner. Driving in the Andes however is simply breathtaking. The road is on a cliff with a sheer steep drop. Some areas are lush and green craggily mountains staring back at you impassively. Deep canyons running between them. Other parts are hot, dry, and dusty with octopus-like cacti drooping over the cliffs. Everywhere you look is an image begging to be photographed. Blue skies, white fluffy clouds rising up around the mountains. Such expansive beauty seems almost impossible. Quito is rainy and cold. It’s the first time I have felt any cold. Being high up in the mountains will bring such weather.

Tunnel ahead

Soon after picking up Albert and Janneke the police waved us over to stop but I kept going. A little further up a car trailing us started honking then passed and signaled me to stop. He approached the car and told me I should’ve stopped for the policeman and that there are more police ahead who will probably stop me. But they didn’t and apparently no one radioed us in.

Walking around Quito looking for a bite to eat a group of younger people were ogling me and one of the guys asked for a pic of me and with me. It was weird but I agreed an then four girls crowded around me and wanted a picture with me. I asked why they wanted a picture but I guess they didn’t hear. I wonder if they thought I was Matisyahu or if I was just an interesting looking foreigner with my black hat and long black beard.

28 November 2010

On the road to Cali I drove through a large valley filled with fields of sugarcane. The road was surprisingly good. For long sections it was a smooth four lane highway. This is quite rare and always a happy surprise. Along the way I passed numerous motorbikes.  It seemed as if we were all racing.  Finally I passed a stadium where all kinds of motorcycles were parked. I think there was a race going on.

Trying to find the hostel in Cali was a bust. So I headed out. From what I saw Cali is in need of an extreme washing. The streets are filled with trash. Back in Mexico I said I would avoid cities and perhaps I should hold to this resolution. On the way out of Cali I stopped at a grocery store and had lunch and bought some cookies to eat while I drive.

I drove almost an hour after dark which was dangerous on the wet mountain road but finding a hotel wasn’t easy. I was able to use the internet which was good. Today I finished the 75 part series on the History of Calvinism I’ve been listening to. Tomorrow I will start on Joel Beeke.

27 November 2010

The highway to Medellin twists through the mountains. Along the road there are hoses spouting water. I’d imagine this is captured from rivers running down the mountains. Despite the dangerous mountain roads there are houses and people and towns. Yarmul is nestled high in the mountains with an incredible view of town as you approach and leave.

Congested is not the word to describe Medellín. It is absolutely cluttered and jam packed and nearly impassable in certain parts of downtown. Driving through the city is like navigating a hoarder’s house. You don’t know where you are and you have to make your own path. I parked my car and had a taxi drive me to the Black Sheep Hostel with the intention of walking back and driving there but it was so far out of downtown that I decided not to stay in Medellín, He took me to an ATM and then back to my car. I considered I should drive to the hostel since I did tell them I would return with my car but I decided it wasn’t worth the hassle.

Instead I drove through the even steeper and windier mountain roads out of Medellín towards Cali. It is dangerous to pass trucks on blind mountain curves but that is how I drove and with God’s perseverance I have survived. 

The hotel I stopped at is 45 pesos which is five pesos more than last night but there is an awesome panoramic view of the river and mountains and the kitchen looks better than the kitchen last night. Last night I ordered pollo la plancha and was told they didn’t have any chicken. Only thing is they open at eight which means I have a two hour wait.

View from my hotel

I went to get my binoculars to scope out the view but after turning my car inside out it seems someone has stolen them. I hope this is not the case. But it seems to be.

There are military checkpoints and police but I have not been stopped. Yesterday a cop motioned for me to pull over but I kept going. So he pulled over the car behind me. I thought the cops would follow me but they didn’t.

I got a call just before eight to let me know the kitchen was about to open. I told him I still wanted to eat and I asked about the moth problem in my room. There are moths everywhere on the wall near the light and on my bed. So he came back with a can of Raid and sprayed the windows and the wall.  This only served to leave dead moths on the floor and a faint insecticide smell all over the room. At dinner Christmas music was playing at a low level. Beeping like from a cheap toy.