30 November 2010

Yesterday at the equator it was cold and rainy and lugubrious. We didn’t even see the official monument but a sundial. But the sun was obscured by clouds and so the sundial was not working. Today it is still overcast and gloomy with a chill and threat of rain. But this morning and afternoon the sun came out for a bit. I woke up early at 6:30 and showered and had a free breakfast of strawberries and cantaloupe in strawberry yogurt, toast, and coffee. I spoke at length with a British man, each of us sharing our travel experiences.

Then I took a cab to Old Quito but I saw a huge statue on a hill overlooking the city and I had the cabbie, Juan, take me there. Virgen de El Panecillo. A huge statue of the Virgin Mary crowned with stars and treading on a serpent. A blasphemous interpretation of Revelation 12. Along the way and back Juan related to me as much history as he could about the city. He pointed out several places, the cemetery, the jail, certain churches and government buildings. He was a good guide but $30 was a bit much.

Quito viewed from the Virgen El Panecillo

I went to visit the Palacio de Gobierno, the seat of government in Ecuador, but was told to return in a few hours at 1pm because the mornings were reserved for school tours. There were a lot of school children lined up outside. So I went to explore the huge Basílica del Voto Nacional. You can climb up to the belfry and clock tower for only two dollars. There is a great view of the city from up top. You can see the long stretch of cluttered houses all along the sides of the mountains and in the valley. After that I had lunch and then returned to the Palacio de Gobierno to wait in line for a tour. They gave me a free picture of myself standing in front of the water fountain inside the Palacio. I will probably send it to my sister Courtney.

Behind the clock

Palacio de Gobierno

Before returning to the hostel I bought a large jug of water and several packs of cookies. All around the old city are indigenous women in fedoras selling their fruits and vegetables and crafts. They are dressed in colorful sweaters and long skirts. Some have babies slung over their shoulders, swaddled tightly, only a barely visible head poking through. In front of the Palacio as I waited to enter, a very drunk man and his ugly woman got into a scuffle with the police. He kept falling on his face and had a cur on his brow over his left eye. They didn’t arrest him though. They walked them off. All the time two street musicians, an accordionist and a guitarist were playing cheerful Ecuadorian music.

Quito coffeeshop