1 December 2010

This morning at about 8 my rear passenger tire went flat and the can of fix-a-flat fixed nothing. So I put on the spare and continued out of town. A guy on a motorcycle pulled up next to me at a red light and asked where I was going. I said “Pan americana Sur” and he led me where the highway began and then sped off.

I pulled into the first Goodyear I saw to fix the tire. The tire they brought out to replace it looked a little warn and sure enough when they put it on the rim there was a large hole. My tire was irreparable because the sidewall was damaged. The Goodyear also happened to be specifically for semis.

But one of the mechanics drove us to a tire shop which was about a mile away. He tried to use the horn but it was broken.  All through South and Central America drivers have their hand constantly on their horn. The other shop had a tire for ninety dollars which was way too expensive but I took it anyway.  I had to take it.  What could I do? I can’t drive all the way to Argentina on a donut. I gave Orlando, that was the mechanic’s name, seven dollars, which was all I had in my pocket, for helping me out like he did. He didn’t even ask for anything.

The roads are surprisingly well maintained and for a while they were four lanes of smooth highway. There’s also a lot of construction going on as they widen the highway.  I got sidetracked in Ambato and ended up in a town called Quevo and then Pelileo Nuevo which was way off course. There was either no sign in Ambato or it was hidden or I just didn’t see it. So I spent an hour being lost. I had to stop at an internet cafe and use Google maps to find my way.

St George statue guarding the entrance to some town

I was going to get a hotel in Chunchi but did not. First they said they had a room then they said they didn’t have a room. I think the old lady just didn’t like me. So I drove further south to El Tambo and got a room here. I think this place might be a love motel because I saw several couples checking out as I was heading down to dinner. The lady here also did my laundry. It is very cold. There is no heater in the room.

The highway zig-zags all through the Andes. The mountains are a dull brown green. You can see all the fields they have cordoned off. Indigenous women walk along the road herding sheep or carrying hoes. They all wear the same colorful sweater, black skirt, and black or brown fedora or bowler hat. It is quite a sight to see all the mountain towns in the Andes and it’s pretty amazing that the highway is so well maintained.

Gas here is only $1.50 a gallon which is a huge relief after paying $5 in Colombia.