03 January 2011

Last night, at the hostel, I ran into a French guy who had been lodging at the same hostel as the Israelis. In Ushuaia we witnessed a beautiful sunset together Probably the most beautiful sunset I saw in Ushuaia. As well as telling me his plans on buying a horse in Costa Rica so he could ride through Nicaragua he also showed me on a map some great trails in Torres del Paine.

The hostel I stayed at in Puerto Natalaes also functions as a sports club and there are numerous rugby trophies in two large glass display cases. Overall the hostel is a wreck with incredibly squeaky floors upstairs, terrible wi-fi (my Mac indicated I was connected but no pages would open and this happened every single time I logged on), and worst of all locked doors so that one could not freely go to and fro without having to knock loudly to re-enter. I dropped off my clothes at the laundry in the morning (they said return at 6pm) and I left the hostel in search of something better.

It was the bad wi-fi that prompted my move. I couldn’t take it anymore. I was planning on waiting for my laundry and staying another night because it was raining but in a huff I decided to scrap that idea. I went looking for a hostel that was incorrectly marked on the Lonely Planet guidebook map (it was on a different street) and ended up at a cafe with wi-fi. But they turned up the music really loud like it was a disco-tech so in an even bigger huff of anger I stormed out leaving my untouched cappuccino on the table and the front door open.

Driving around I found a bookstore cafe where I hung out for almost four hours. The rain stopped finally and I went to check on my clothes to see if they were done early. On the way I bought a large funnel for pouring gas into the car. Thankfully my clothes were done two hours before scheduled. All neatly folded and placed in a bag. I ate one last monster burger and left town. But not before recommending the hostel I stayed in to some folks who were looking for a room. Only for the low price though.

Driving in the foothills of Torres del Paine is akin to driving in the foothills of Glacier Park in Montana. I stopped to take some photos and this is when I noticed my rear driver side tire was nearly bald with the metal tread poking through the rubber. No wonder the mechanic in Ushuaia said he didn’t recommend driving anywhere on those tires. It’s only one tire though and I have a donut and the providence of God. What happens, happens. In the meantime I’m driving more carefully.

Obscured by clouds

Just like the day I entered Grand Teton National Park, the mountains were obscured by clouds. There was no moment of awe or revelation. The mysteries of these mountains remain locked. I ended up driving for an hour in the wrong direction before I realized it and made a u-turn. I did it on a curve and almost got reamed by a van.

I made it to a campground and parked. A guy approached and asked if I drove all the way from New York. I said yes. He said “I notice you got a Wisconsin bumper sticker as well. I’m from Wisconsin as well. I’m from Madison.” His girl was packing the car as we were talking and all of a sudden it hit me that I had met these two, Jeff and Evelyn, in September 2009 at Olympic National Park in Washington. It was Evelyn that brought it all back. She is Chilean. It was strange to meet them again on the other side of the world. They were on the way out though. I wonder where we will meet again. Jeff said “I hope your luck with the car continues.” I said thanks but I should’ve said, “It hasn’t been luck. It’s been God’s providence which has sustained me.”

Everyone at this campground has the same yellow igloo tent. They probably all rented from the same trekking company in Puerto Natales.