31 October 2010

Today I left san Juan del Sur, I stayed for nine days.  Nine worthless days just hanging around doing nothing. It was way past time to leave. Driving to the border I saw Ometepe Island, both volcanoes wrapped in clouds. It took two and a half hours to finish  everything. There were two long lines at immigration and customs in Nicaragua. At immigration they wanted two dollars not cordobas so I had to find someone to change my money. I gave them a twenty dollar bill and when they tried to give me change in Cordobas I told them no, dollars only, just to be a jerk. So they tried to make me take back my twenty dollar bill. After about three minutes he got proper change and handed back my passport. During this time the tramitador who was supposed to be helping me disappeared and I got away without having to pay him.

At the Costa Rican border a mute ran up to me and helped show me around. A sign out front says proof of onward passage, plane or bus ticket, is required.  I showed them my car title and got my passport stamped. In Nicaragua customs is in a building far from immigration. In Costa Rica customs is across the street but after they inspected the car I had to drive to a seemingly isolated warehouse to get my vehicle permit. I gave the mute a five. The exchange rate is extremely awkward, 530 Colones for $1. Not as simple a rate as Nicaragua or Guatemala. 

I drove all the way to Puntarenas. This town is gritty and dirty. Lots of trash in the streets. Most of the shops were closed too. There’s a cruise ship in the harbour. It was a breath of fresh air to go for a walk and eat dinner in a new place by myself. I had baked garlic sea-bass for dinner. I was going to buy a hand-rolled cigar I saw on the way to dinner but they had shut down and vanished by the time I walked by. All the shops were shutting down. It seems like everywhere is the same. People on the street with booths set up to hawk jewellery, t-shirts, sunglasses. and a million little trinkets no one needs.

It is definitely better to travel alone and not be with anyone. I cannot say I won’t meet more travellers but I should do my best to meet less.