15 October 2010

Racking up the miles!

At Abaj Takalik I saw the oldest ball field in mesoamerica and I also met two Americans, Travis and Rebecca, Peace Corps volunteers. They asked if I had driven from New York and when I told them I planned on driving to Tierra del Fuego Travis said he wanted to do the same.

This is the oldest ball field in mesoamerica according to the guide.

On the way to Santiago Atitlan I thought I missed the turn so I backtracked a bit. While looking at maps in my car an older gentleman asked in good English where I was going. He informed me that I had not missed the turn but it was about thirty miles ahead. He then asked if I was a Mennonite because of my beard and hat. I neglected to ask how he spoke English well and knew who the Mennonites are.

Gas station where I stopped to look over my maps.

The road to Santiago Atitlan winds slowly through the mountains. Storm clouds were forming in the distance but not much rain broke. Still the roads were wet and that coupled with the potholes and sections of construction and dirt and steep climbs made the drive dangerous. In San Lucas Tomilan I lost the route and got lost in town. I drove around until I hit a dead end and asked a couple where the route lay.

The drive to from San Lucas Tomilan to Santiago Atitlan is very steep and curvy. There is little room for error on the narrow roads. But at the top of each curve there are stunning views of Lake Atitlan and the surrounding mountains and volcanoes. Today was gray and cloudy. It must be a magnificent sight when the sky is blue and the sun is shining onto the lake.

The road is very steep.

Lake Atitlan

The streets of Santiago Atitlan are very narrow and alive with vehicle traffic and especially people walking and standing around. You can drive right up to them and they will still not move. All the women are dressed in skirts and colorful blouses. The men are dressed in jeans and polos mostly. I thought I saw some Americans, two girls in jean shorts and a guy. Driving around the town I came upon a funeral procession. I could tell it was a child’s funeral because the coffin was so tiny. The streets are extremely narrow. I pulled over for some vehicle and when I continued on my way I broke my passenger side mirror because I had pulled over too far. I ended up superglueing it together. I wanted to stay in Santiago Atitlan and explore more but I did not. I drove back down the mountain to find a hotel. I did not want to face washed out roads in the morning. I should’ve stayed in Santiago Atitlan. I ended up driving about twenty miles in the rain and dark, I could hardly see a thing. I ended up at the first hotel I saw in Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa. Because of my broken Spanish and not being able to understand what the boy who came to meet me said I think I ended up appearing as a gringo fool.  Dinner was pollo.

Guatemalans are pretty friendly. I wish I knew more Spanish. But I’m getting by. On Guatemala t.v. advertisements for stores are for store fronts. It’s not the same in America where each store has a separate building with doors.  Here there is one wide garage door and the store is wedged in between other stores.  There seems to be no urban sprawl but a centralization of each city.  Everything is cramped together. Even in Mexico there’s some urban sprawl.

At Abaj Takalik there were Mayans doing Mayan ceremonies and for sale there were paintings of Jesus.